Seiko 5

The problem with being a watch geek is two-fold. First, it completely invalidates anything I say if I feel like teasing my wife about how many shoes she owns. Second, mechanical watches tend to be much more expensive than their quartz counterparts.


Enter the Seiko 5.

We’ll just have to keep hoping that link remains active, because Seiko’s website is fairly awful. (So is Casio’s site for G-Shock watches, with no feature filter to help you through hundreds of styles.) As a matter of fact, if you just go to (USA, anyhow), you can’t even find any mention of the Seiko 5’s existence. But a quick Google search led me to the microsite for the 5 and it’s 50th anniversary. 1963 was a very busy year, with James Bond movies also celebrating their 50th, “I have a dream”, and JFK’s assassination- but I digress. Let’s talk about the watch.

My favorite thing about a mechanical watch is the rapid ticking, like the opening of a 60 Minutes episode, as the second hand makes several discrete jumps between each second rather than the inelegant full second clunk of quartz.

While all mechanical watches I’m aware of share that attribute, the Seiko 5 is unique in a few ways. First is the extremely low cost. MSRP on the watch is $185 USD, but they can be found on for $50-60 all day long. The movement is made in Malaysia and I’m guessing that’s for cost savings. The crystal watch face is a lower grade of Seiko’s proprietary “hardlex” which is a mineral crystal, just not sapphire, to keep the price low. Second is the crown, which leads into how the 5 was named.

  1. Automatic winding
  2. Day/date displayed in a single window
  3. Water resistance
  4. Recessed crown at the 4 o’clock position
  5. Durable case and bracelet

These five attributes were unique for the time and, considering these watches were devised and cost effective before the Quartz Crisis/Revolution took place, I can’t help but imagine they were the ultimate sports watch for a five to seven year window of time.


My initial impression of the 5 was shock at how small it is. Honestly, it’s about the same size as most watches I grew up with, but the fashion in recent years for men’s watches has been a larger size (which I think is played out and they’re getting smaller again). But since 37mm doesn’t mean much to me without comparison, here are some photos.

US quarter, the 5, and Kinetic Dad gave me when I graduated high school. Click to embiggen.

Right to left: US quarter, the 5, and Seiko Kinetic my Dad gave me in ’97.

The quarter is 24.11 millimeters. All measurements were taken with Mitutoyo digimatic calipers. There were various decimals but most measurements were within 0.15 mm so I rounded to the nearest whole number with three exceptions.

TAG Heuer Grand Carrera 17, Seiko 5, Oakley Holeshot

Right to left: TAG Heuer Grand Carrera 17, Seiko 5, and Oakley Holeshot.

For the face I measured the diameter of the crystal and you can see on the Oakley that’s not truly representative of the clock face part of the display. (The Oakley’s odd case also skews those figures.) The cases’ diameters were measured based on their radius (again, see the Oakley, who claim 47.5mm), then again including crown, and finally from bracelet stem-to-stem across the face. That explained, the watch sizes are as follows:

  • Seiko 5 – 29mm face, 37mm case, 38.5mm w/crown, & 43mm stems.
  • Kinetic – 29mm face, 38mm case, 40mm w/crown, & 43mm stems.
  • TAG – 37mm face, 43mm case, 47mm w/crown, & 50mm stems.
  • Oakley – 31.5mm face, 45mm case, 49.8mm w/crown, & 50mm stems.

For thickness, the 5 is 10.5mm, Kinetic is 10.3, TAG is 15, and Oakley is 11.8. A US mint quarter is 1.7mm for comparison. I can’t imagine wearing anything larger than the TAG without it being ridiculous and tacky (cough, cough, most Diesel and Oakley), but it also feels just about perfect. It’s been so long since I’ve worn my Kinetic that going back to a smaller size felt like I was wearing a ladies watch at first, but that feeling passed quickly and now it’s like the perfect daily wear timepiece for a jeans and t-shirt guy.

The look (as if you can’t see the face from the pictures) is simple and relatively clean. I like the geometric design, and the hands are large enough that the luminous material is legible in the dark on all three. The case is stainless steel, but in a flat finish. The watch is small enough that this is a non-issue anyway, but the crown being recessed and at 4 o’clock precludes any rubbing or irritation on the back of the wearer’s hand. While the case of the watch is water resistant, I have no desire to stress the cloth band and do not wear this watch in the shower.

The exhibition case back is really just to prove this is a mechanical watch as you watch the balance wheel cycle back and forth. Otherwise, the movement isn’t that fancy and doesn’t have any jeweling on internal parts. The text printed on the back crystal is disappointing, but you’re almost never going to be looking at it.

Excess strap is held in place by two metal loops, one captured within the weave of the band and one sliding free to adjust as you need.

It’s about as basic a watch as you can get, save for the day/date complication. And of course, because it’s mechanical it won’t be quite as accurate as quartz. But who cares about that when we all have mobile phones in our pockets anyway? For just slightly more than a Timex Weekender (an excellent pick for quartz and style) you can own a mechanical watch. No more batteries to die or change. Granted, a mechanical watch should get serviced every now and again to keep it within tolerances, but wouldn’t you love to brag to your friends that your watch is EMP proof (even if it’s not strictly true)?

The short of it is this: in my limited writing on watches I’ve never recommended one. My TAG is too pricey to say “everybody should own one” and the Oakley looks too dude-bro frat boy. As of the date I write this, I’m on a site with no Amazon affiliate link. That means I gain nothing when I tell you this, gentle reader: if you’re interested in watches at all, you owe it to yourself to pick up a Seiko 5. The black model is fifty bucks and free shipping if you’re Prime member. The holidays are over, so you’re free to buy things for yourself again without ruining somebody’s gift plan. (And big, BIG thanks to my wonderful wife for tolerating and contributing to my watch obsession!)

There is quite literally no reason to not own one.

Gillette Super Speed & Super Thin

After my failed Super-Max experiment, a buddy of mine in Nepal sent me enough Gillette Super Thin blades to keep me supplied for at least six months. And I’m going to use every last one of them.

Gillette_SuperThinThe blades shaved easily, with no pulling or irritation, and I didn’t nick myself once. I missed a little bit of stubble running the length of my jaw on both sides of my face, but I suspect that’s due to using the twist-to-open Super Speed razor pictured above. It’s not my usual razor, and I’d bet dropping one of these blades into my trusty Gillette Tech (or practicing more with the Super Speed) will shave my mug baby smooth all over.

♣ Blades vs. Cartridges ♣

Some quick thoughts on shaving with blades vs. cartridges, and I promise not to get weird and preachy trying to convert you away from that multi-bladed environment destroying expensive landfiller made of baby hate, you handsome devil. All kidding aside, it’s insanely cheaper to use blades than, say, Fusion cartridges and does produce significantly less waste for the environmentally concerned… But none of that is really a powerful enough motivator to make the switch. A man switches to retro DE razors and blades because he doesn’t mind taking five to ten percent longer during his shave, and wants to fulfill the experience of shaving like his dad or granddad. To that end, it works beautifully.

Good blades are hard to find in the United States, though. We mostly use cartridges here, so that’s mostly what’s sold. The easiest way to get decent blades here is to order Feather blades from I’m guessing Americans have enough expendable income to spend “excessively” on speed and convenience. I’ve always found the best blades when traveling overseas, and it seems most online specialty retailers import their blades as well. Gillette doesn’t even list blades on their USA website. Just something to be aware of.

♣ Classic vs. Outdated ♣

I started shaving with a Gillette Sensor, which they don’t make anymore. They still make the cartridges, but buying new from “the best a man can get” means a Mach 3 or a Fusion these days. That’s fine, but I bought I replaced a Mach 3 that I had with a Fusion because of slick marketing and six months later they released the Fusion Power! Battery powered manual razors, vibrating features, different colors and trim levels… What’s next? Flashlights? MP3 players? The capitalist in me understands, but as a customer I’m fed up.

My Super Speed is a flare tipped model, probably from the 1950’s, and works flawlessly. No pitting or rust, it’s like new. I don’t know how old my Tech is, but it’s even simpler and the patent dates back to 1938. And they both still work wonderfully.

Shave like a man. Like your dad or maybe your grandpa did. You won’t regret it.


The Feds Didn’t Kill Pontiac, I did. | The Truth About Cars

The Feds Didn’t Kill Pontiac, I did. | The Truth About Cars.

An excellent write-up from TTAC that echoes, but also explains and validates my previously written loathing of Pontiac.

Not all blades are equal


These are the worst blades I have ever used. Click to embiggen.

I switched to an old fashioned double-edged safety razor shortly after I began using shaving creams and a brush instead of canned gels and what-not. A good friend of mine sent me two vintage Gillettes- a Tech and a Super Speed. The Tech quickly became my razor for every shave, replacing my new-fangled Fusion and it’s five or six blade cartridges. But one of the things the old-timey shavers debate is which blades do the best job actually shaving you. The oft-touted cost savings of a blade vs. a cartridge don’t amount to much if the shave is lousy.

I’ve never thought much about the great razor debate until now. Discussions about esoteric Gillette blades no longer available in the U.S. vs. Feather and dozens of others has always struck me as a bit obsessive and something that couldn’t possibly make that big a difference until now. The Super-Max Super Stainless pictured above gave me the worst shave I can recall having, more pulling at my whiskers than cutting. It was painful, awful, and left patches of whiskers I dared not try to remove again. Specifically, the hairs high on my lip and directly below my nostrils. And that’s before it cut off a small chunk of my cupid’s bow, the edge of the upper lip directly below the philtral dimple. I’ve never felt discomfort from shaving, but this blade caused outright pain.

Super-Max’s website claims they’re made from the “Highest Quality Swedish steel”, but my package was labeled as being made in India if I recall correctly. Maybe they were counterfeit, I don’t know. I don’t even remember where I got them. All I know is they were awful and I threw away the rest of the package and swapped in one of the hundreds of Silver Blue I bought overseas. Ah…. much better.

So the blades DO make a difference. Guess it’s time to find a blade sampler pack for sale from a specialist site. Maybe one of these from Royal Shave will do the trick…


Tacky vs. Tasteful, the helmet is also more practical.

Tacky vs. Tasteful, a full-face is also more practical.

By now, readers know I’m a firm believer in always riding helmeted- mostly because arguments against helmet laws are tremendously stupid. But what does one do when the weather turns cold? As it happens, a helmet is also better for shielding a rider’s face from cold wind blast than a tacky skull face bandana! The vents and visor of my Schuberth C3 Pro seal up nicely, the inner liner unfolds to cover vent inlet ports for additional protection and warmth, and the chin curtain encloses snug but comfortable around the rider’s neck to create an isolated environment. The one downside that’s always been with cold weather riders (or full face helmets stopped at a light) is fogging visors. There have been anti-fog sprays, coatings, etc. but most accounts I’ve read say they don’t work all that well.

Until now.


Note the fog on the visor and clarity of the insert when it’s in focus.

Holy cow, this Pinlock insert works flawlessly. Seeing physics at work as the edges of my visor fog but the pinlock insert stays clear and provides visibility is just another reason to be grateful for science! My particular helmet has an easy and tool free removal/installation process, which made dropping in the pinlock even easier and faster than the YouTube video embedded in this post. But the most effective example I can show is this gif I stole from Read their review for more proof and testimonial of how well the Pinlock insert works.

Clear Pinlock insert and helmet with integrated sun visor = perfect.

Riding to and from work, I was so thrilled by how well it worked that I caught myself breathing as hard as I could in an attempt to overwhelm the insert. Despite my very best efforts to the contrary, the insert stayed clear. The worst visual artifact I’ve witnessed is a slight and only occasional prism effect at the edges of my vision – and even then it’s only caused by man-made lights when riding in the dark and could be a result of my LASIK. Applying the same care and cleanliness as when I homebrew some beer kept my optics fingerprint free, and has made me an avowed fan.

I won’t own another helmet without one.

10 psi

I'll replace this photo with one I take of my blue caps, but the dash of color really stands out and helps for finding/reminding when airing up.

A dash of color really stands out and aids in finding/reminding when airing up.

I really wish I was a sophisticated enough rider to communicate what I feel when the air pressure gets low in my motorcycle’s tires, but the best I can do is say “it feels wrong”. More specifically (but more grammatically vague), it doesn’t turn right. Of course I’m not actually limited to left hand turns, it just feels funny whenever I try to change direction. It’s like the bike leans or falls into a turn too quickly, or the front and back halves are disconnected or something. And all this phrasal dithering is about as articulate or precise as my attempts to understand the handling of my bike. It’s really quite frustrating.

“Of the many imprisonments possible in our world, one of the worst must be to be inarticulate — to be unable to tell another person what you really feel.” -Roger Ebert

I’ve used terms like “squishy”, or when my wife has ridden pillion and I haven’t adjusted the pre-load I’ll say the rear end feels “squirrelly”, but I’m really just repeating what I’ve heard or read from others. If anything, compromised suspension on the motorcycle just serves to show me how little I actually know. It’s a very humbling experience to have a decent command of words and expression, only to realize my understanding of the event is the weak point. All I really know is this: a pocket air gauge usually proves that 10 psi makes all the difference in the world.

19 Reasons to Not Abandon Handwriting

This pretty much says it all.